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Ålesund to Trondheim: The Rugged Coastline & Island Culinary Experience with Nevada Berg

3 to 9th June 2024.

Our culinary journey begins in Ålesund, also known as the Art Nouvaeu city. From there, we will travel along a little part of Norway’s long coastline to handpicked destinations and local businesses that represent tradition and innovation in the Norwegian food culture. We will visit the island of Ona, where Nevada’s husband has family roots. We will learn about life on a small fishing island and the challenges and hardships connected to living along the coast and having the sea as your food source -magical and vast, unpredictable, and yet giving.

On the island of Gossen, we will meet two local businesses that utilize the gifts of the sea and have elevated old traditions to suit modern living. In Kristiansund, we will learn more about the history of klippfisk ‘dried cod’ that became a celebrated cuisine in Spain and Portugal, better known as the famous ‘bacalao’.

Travelling inland, we will visit a dairy farm that focuses on sustainability and maintaining the old traditions handed down through generations. Arriving in Trondheim, we will taste how a Michelin star restaurant elevates this farm’s produce and uses it in their tasting menu. We will conclude our journey on a high by exploring the best of Trondheim’s attractions and their food scene, visiting a second Michelin star restaurant.

Nevada Berg is an author, cook, photographer, and creator of the highly praised culinary and cultural website, "North Wild Kitchen". There, you will find stories and recipes inspired by Norwegian traditions and history, as well as innovative ways of using traditional Norwegian ingredients. Nevada has also published two international cookbooks. Her first book, North Wild Kitchen, was nominated by The New York Times as one of the best cookbooks in the fall of 2018. Her second cookbook, Norwegian Baking through the Season, recently came out in 2023. Nevada is well-known internationally with her special focus on Norwegian culinary traditions. This culinary journey takes us to the destinations of some of her stories and presents us with many of the recipes she shares.

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  • Notice, changes may occur
    Symbol explanation:
    (B) Breakfast included
    (L) Lunch included
    (D) Dinner included

  • Day 1: June 3rd – Ålesund, the City of Art Nouveau

    Find your way to Ålesund, a vibrant city on the western coast of Norway. You can find flights to the city’s airport “Vigra” through connections in Amsterdam, Frankfurt, or Oslo, to name a few.

    At our central hotel, you will meet your travel companions for the tour. We are a small group and look forward to getting to know everyone. We will start our journey with a guided walking tour to explore this gem of a city.

    Ålesund is known as the Art Nouveau city, due to a bit of chance. As it happened, a major fire ravaged Ålesund in January 1904 and thousands of citizens became homeless overnight. Around the same time, Europe was experiencing a new architectural and artistic style. Art Nouveau is also known as Jugendstil in German, el Modernismo Catalán in Spanish, and the Modern Style in English. When the houses were rebuilt, during the years 1904-1907, the architects were influenced by this new prevailing style. In addition to the special architecture found here, the city is built on several small islands dripping out into the sea giving it a Venetian-type feel.

    The guided walk includes a lunch before some free time to explore the city a bit more. We can suggest walking the 418 steps to get to the amazing viewpoint over the city, named Aksla. Get even deeper into the architectural history of the art nouveau city in the Jugend museum or even further back in history at the open-air Sunnmøre Museum.

    We check into our hotel for the night and get a bit settled before we meet again for a classic seafood dinner.  In the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant, we get better acquainted.
    (L, D)

  • Day 2: June 4th – Seabound

    Wake up to the sunlight peering in through your window. In June, most of Norway, including Ålesund, has light all night referred to as the white nights. We embark on our tour bus for the journey out into the Nordic Sea to the small Island of Ona. The bus takes us through underwater tunnels and over bridges that connects these small islands and islets. At Finnøy, the road stops, and we hop on a ferry to Ona. A must while on a ferry in the Westcoast of Norway is to have a coffee and a “svele”. This is a pancake-like pastry topped with sweat buttercream or the well-known Norwegian brown cheese.

    Nevada looks forward to bringing you to Ona where her husband’s family comes from. His father left the island when he was young, and always dreamt of coming back. Nevada’s husband wanted to bring her to Ona for years to show her the magic of the island from his childhood memories. Nevada writes on her site: For years he wanted to take me to Ona – to the place where he spent several childhood summers racing between the quaint houses, collecting seashells, fishing, and playing into the night as the summer sun kept its brilliance. This place of charm and memories, with its stormy and sunny composition keeping you guessing. Rain or shine, cold or warm, this is a place suited for those who long for the sea and are braced for its sometimes-unforgiving disposition.

    Read about Nevada’s first visit to Ona here:

    Our hotel, Ona Havstuer, is a pearl far out on the coast and is going to be our home for the two next nights. We get to know the island better by taking a walking tour with a local guide. The island has been a fishing village for centuries. We visit the little red lighthouse that has been in use since 1867. The highest number of habitants was 300 people recorded in the years after second world war. At that time, Ona was the southernmost place where people collected and shipped “klippfisk” or dried cod. During the fishing season, the village increased severely in size as fishermen from the fjords came out to take part. Today, there are only about 15 residents living year-round. During our walk, we will have lunch with some cake and tea. After our lunch, we will visit a ceramic shop and an art studio.

    Take some time of leisure to savor the views and feeling of this little village of colorful wooden houses built on grey rocks. See how the history lives on with modern additions, hear the silence of the sea, and smell the salty ocean.

    We will meet again for dinner at our hotel. Share your experience with the rest of the group and enjoy your surroundings.
    (B, L, D)

  • Day 3: June 5th – Fishing and Birdwatching at Ona

    Some of the inhabitants still live off of fishing, but it has turned more into a hobby now, and a way of catching fresh meals by your own means. We hope you are eager in taking part of the island life and come crab fishing.

    A local fisherman will take us out on the ocean by boat to his tried-and-true locations. We try our hand at pulling up the traps set the day before and will wait with anticipation of how many crabs will be inside. Among the crabs, we should also have some shrimps and crayfish.

    With a slow return to the port, the boat will circle small islets and an archipelago. We will look for wildlife and seabirds and take in our surroundings.

    We return to our hotel for a 2-course lunch, featuring local ingredients.

    In the evening, we will head down to the docks and invite the local community to join us for a seafood feast. We are hoping for a similar experience to what Nevada had on her first visit, when she writes:

    The crabs were lifted ashore. Almost immediately, the gas burner stove was lit and a large pot with water and sea salt was brought to boiling. One by one, the crabs were tossed in the water and simmered until just perfect. After a 5-minute rest, the water was drained and the crabs were lined up on the rocks to cool. We dug into the claws first. Fresh, sweet, and buttery. There’s nothing quite like eating something this local and so fresh that it doesn’t need anything else served with it. As the feasting continued, the reality of the moment sank in. Here I was, sitting on a rock on an island I had been wishing to visit for 15 years, eating freshly boiled crab from the waters surrounding it, and looking up at the lighthouse that has guided so many before me.
    (B, L, D)

  • Day 4: June 6th – Where Old and New Traditions Meet

    In the early morning, we pack our bags and take the ferry to the island of Gossen. Our bus is ready on the other side and drives us to Havsnø AS.

    Here, we meet Michal, an American raised in Portland, Oregon. Michal started the company in 2014. Her love affair with salt began already back in Oregon, but when she and her family moved back to her husband’s home island, she wondered why nobody was producing salt in the surrounding area. With this incredible natural resource on their doorstep, surely somebody should take advantage of it, so she did.

    Havsnø AS as won multiple awards, and can be found throughout Norway, on some of the tables at Norway’s highest ranked restaurant, and shops in Europe and the US. During our visit, we will be shown around the factory and learn more about their history. We will taste some of the products and get the opportunity to buy some to take home.

    You can read more about Nevada’s visit with Michal and her sea salt production here:

    We continue our journey on the island Gossen and visit our next local producer, Juvik Sild.

    Juvik Sild is a herring company that celebrates their traditional roots while looking toward the future. This is where people have been fishing as far back in time as anyone can recollect, making it a part of their DNA. The Sporsheim family took on the task of rejuvenating the Norwegian tradition with herring and carrying on the family company that had been established by their grandfather back in 1928. Nevada writes: Using their father’s herring recipe, and a few new ones of their own, they have set off to capture the taste buds and imagination of Norwegians and the rest of world.

    This will be an exciting visit with interesting smells, tastes, and an insight into an old tradition made new. They will show us around and tell us their stories before we get to sit down in their cozy showroom to have a “sildebord” (a herring meal). On offer will be the delicious traditional ways of eating herring, and some modern twists that will keep herring on the menu for the future.

    Read about Nevada’s visit to Juvik sild here:

    After a fulfilling afternoon, we board our bus and drive to our next hotel, taking another ferry to reach the mainland as we skirt the wild coast. After a bit of driving, there is no longer an archipelago protecting the land from the power of the Nordic Sea and this is where we find our next, beautifully located hotel. Take your time, breathe in the refreshing air, and take in the nature around you. We settle in and have some time for ourselves to go for a walk or just unpack in our rooms.

    In the evening, we meet in the hotel restaurant for a lovely 3-course dinner.
    (B, L, D)

  • Day 5: June 7th – Bacalao, Sour Cream Porridge and a Michelin Star Restaurant

    Wake up to the sounds of waves crashing on the shore not far from the walls of your hotel room. We will meet for breakfast and then check out to continue our drive north to Trondheim.

    Our first stop on the way to our destination is Kristiansund. Similar to Ålesund, the city of Kristiansund sprawls out over multiple islands. In its heyday, Kristiansund was a bustling fishing city with boats coming all the way from Portugal and Spain to trade for the famous dried cod, called “Klippfisk”. In Portugal and Spain, it is more commonly known as bacalao. We stop for an early lunch so we can try the famous tomato-based dish of Norwegian bacalao and to hear the story of the culture connected to it.

    We travel a bit further into the country. Even with the long coast, farming sheep, goat, and cattle has been essential to life. For our next visit, we will go to one of the typical Trønder-farms, where it was once normal to have a long, large house with multiple generations living side by side. Trøndelag is the region north of Møre og Romsdal.

    On our drive we stop in Orkdal where we visit a farm that produce dairy product for the finer restaurants in Trondheim. We get a tour of the farm and learn their history. At the end of our visit, we get a taste of sour cream porridge ‘rømmegrøt’ that we have read about in Nevada’s writing.

    We leave Orkdal and arrive in Trondheim, making our way to our final hotel. We settle in before meeting in the reception to walk to dinner.

    Tonight, we will dine at the restaurant Credo. With two Michelin stars they serve dishes featuring produce made in the region such as seafood from the surrounding sea, and dairy products cultivated in ways where taste and sustainability are the most important elements. Tonight, fine dining will be highlighted with a thoughtful menu celebrating the season and Norwegian cuisine.
    (B, L, D)

  • Day 6: June 8th – A city of tastes

    Our last day will be spent exploring the beautiful city of Trondheim. This city has grown to be a real food destination with a focus on farm-to-table, local produce, and culinary excellence found in many of the restaurants and cafés.

    This is also a very historical city with the largest medieval cathedral of the north, Nidarosdomen, towering in the heart of the city. We start our day with a morning tour of this awe-provoking building. For nearly 1000 years, pilgrims have visited Nidarosdomen, which was built on top of the Viking grave of St. Olav.

    After this, we will visit a bakery in the colorful Baklandet. Bright painted wood houses line the street alongside cozy shops and cafés. We sit down for a cup of coffee and a delicious treat.

    We end our day with dinner at another Michelin star awarded restaurant. Fagn strives to embrace locally produced ingredients and provide a joyful experience through them. This will be another tasting menu where you can purchase a paired drink package if you want.
    (B, L, D)

  • Day 7: June 9th – Departure and journey beyond

    Our journey together concludes and we will all share our goodbyes at the breakfast table, while leaving at our leisure.

    From Trondheim, you can journey on by yourselves. We can recommend getting on the Hurtigruta og Havila ferries and cruise further up the coast to the Lofoten Islands and Tromsø. Another option is to take the train to Røros, another magical destination where you’ll find good food and handcraft traditions in one of the most picturesque towns in Norway. This is a good choice for those who want to see a bit more of Norway before they continue on with the train to Oslo and the flight home.

Departures and prices

outBoundDeparture cityHotelSpots leftFrom price
3/6ÅlesundÅlesund, Ona, Hustadvika and Tronheim842 950 NOKBookMore information
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